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COMME des GARÇONS WIKI

川久保 玲
かわくぼ れい;英文:Rei Kawakubo;1942年10月11日)是一位日本的服裝設計師,出生於東京,畢業於慶應義塾大學。1980年代前期,她以不對稱、曲面狀的前衞服飾聞名全球,受到許多時尚界人士的喜愛。此外,日本的知名服裝設計師當中,川久保玲是少數幾個未曾到國外留學,而且未曾主修過服裝設計的特殊設計師。
川久保玲的父親是慶應大學教授。她在大學時代就對美術產生了濃厚的興趣。1969年,她畢業之後,到一家服裝布料公司上班,並在1967年正式獨立成服裝設計師,1973年她成立了一個服飾品牌,名稱為「Comme des Garçons」。

1981年,川久保玲第一次在巴黎時裝展舉行發表會;此時她開始受到全球時裝界的注目,隔年,她的服飾有了一個簡單的暱稱,稱為「乞丐裝」;並造成1980年初期寬鬆、刻意的立體化、破碎、不對稱、不顯露身材的服裝設計潮流。這一場發表會的設計靈感據知來自於日本美學中的不規則和缺陷文化。她的創作概念和特色引起了不少時尚評論家的爭議,也帶動了後進設計師的服飾設計。

川久保玲擅於使用低彩度的布料來構成特殊的服飾,其中有許多是單件同一色調的設計,特別是黑色可說是川久保玲的代表顏色。

1983年,川久保玲獲得每日新聞時尚設計獎(Mainichi Fashion Award),1987年,獲得美國時尚技術學院(fashion institute of technology)的榮譽學位。今日她是20世紀女性服裝設計師中的重要人物。

目前「Comme des Garçons」總店位於巴黎。川久保玲是「Comme des Garçons」這個品牌的主要設計師,並有12間分店,以及大約200專櫃或精品店遍及全世界,據媒體報道,川久保玲的這個服飾品牌年營利約為150萬美金。在美國,川久保玲的公司經常捐款給孤兒院和美國棒球協會。1988年開始,川久保玲也發行自己的雜誌,稱為Six。她的先生是英國的編織設計師Adrian Joffe。


Rei Kawakubo (川久保 玲 Kawakubo Rei?, born 11 October 1942 in Tokyo) is a Japanese fashion designer, founder ofComme des Garçons.

She is an untrained fashion designer, but studied fine arts and literature atKeio University. After graduation, Kawakubo worked in a textile company and began working as a freelance stylist in 1967.

In 1973, she established her own company, Comme des Garçons Co. Ltd in Tokyo and opened up her first boutique in Tokyo in 1975. Starting out with women's clothes, Kawakubo added a men's line in 1978. Three years later, she started presenting her fashion lines in Paris each season, opening up a boutique in Paris in 1982.

Comme des Garçons specialises inanti-fashion, austere, sometimes deconstructed garments. During the 1980s, her garments were primarily in black, dark grey or white. The materials were often draped around the body and featured frayed, unfinished edges along with holes and a general asymmetrical shape. Challenging the established notions of beauty she created an uproar at her debut Paris fashion show where journalists labeled her clothes 'Hiroshima chic' amongst other things. Since the late 1980s, her colour palette has grown somewhat.

Rei likes to have input in all the various aspects of her business, rather than just focusing on clothes and accessories. She is greatly involved in graphic design, advertising, and shop interiors believing that all these things are a part of one vision and are inextricably linked. Her Aoyama, Tokyo store is known for its sloping glass facade decorated with blue dots. This was designed in collaboration between Rei and architectFuture Systems and interior designer Takao Kawasaki.[1] Rei published her own bi-annual magazine, 'Six' (standing for 'sixth sense'), in the early 1990s. It featured very little text and consisted mainly of photographs and images that she deemed inspiring. In 1996 Rei was guest editor of the high art publicationVisionaire.

Rei is known to be quite reclusive and media shy, preferring her innovative creations to speak for themselves. According to Women's Wear Daily, she is a fashion icon but, during an interview, she said she does not think of herself as an icon.[2] Her designs have inspired many other late designers like the Belgian Martin Margiela and Ann Demeulemeester, as well as Austrian designer Helmut Lang.

Junya Watanabe, Kawakubo's former apprentice, started his own line in the early 1990s and has attained much attention in the fashion business in his own right.

Kawakubo is a member of the Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter.

Kawakubo created the 2008 autumn "guest designer" collection at H&M, designing men's and women's clothing along with some children's and a unisex perfume.

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